An electric fence consists of a flow circuit through which the current flows. The current passes through the wire to the animal or the grass and through the grounding pole of the grounding system back to the unit.
• An energizer that gives frequent power surges.
• A fence wire that conducts electricity.
• Insulators which isolate the flow of the poles.
• Grounding which carries the current back to the energizer.
The choice of an energizer depends on several factors.
1. What is the length of the fence?
2. Which animals would you like to keep within the fence?
3. Vegetation on the fence?
4. How much power does the energizer need?
5. Start thinking about future expansion plans.
6. Choose a device with sufficient delivery of pulsed power and high voltage when touching the fence.
A connection of 220 volts is the best solution and guarantee for a constant power supply.
Output voltage is the voltage measured at the output of the unit. The voltage is necessary to transport the energy. Because the fence is not connected, this number has no practical value.
Tension at 500 Ohm is the voltage in contact with human or animals on the fence.
This is the power of energy which absorbs the energizer from the mains or battery.
The pulse power is the impulse, which feels the animal when it comes into contact with the fence. The higher the pulse energy, the stronger the impact.
Grounding is extremely important. Proper grounding is 50% of the quality of the fence. The grounding ensures that the circuit closes. This means that upon contact of the fencing wire, the current through the animal proximately flows to the ground and is recovered through the grounding post.
A grounding consists of special grounding poles. If more than one grounding pole is needed, one should place it at least three metres apart. In the selection of the required number of earth pins, the soil plays an important role. For example, a dry soil has a much poorer conductivity than a damp soil.
The artery of your fence is the conducting wire (alloy or stainless steel) which transports the stream, these are available in various thicknesses and qualities. Regardless of the specific advantages of the different options (rope, tape or wire), the most important aspect is the electrical conductivity.Do you absolutely require the best material? Than choose the rope, tape or wire. ZoneGuard Plus provides a 40 times greater current conduction.
Should a main connection be present, use a main energizer. When a main connection is unavailable, use a battery energizer.
That is not allowed. Install a separate grounding system.
The grounding pole must be completely independent of the house/stable.
The grounding should be in a distance of 10 metres from the house/barn.
Never connect the grounding pole to water pipes!!
The grounding pole is too short.
Too few grounding piles.
The soil is too dry.
No matter what the ability of an energizer is, the system is even more effective if it provides a good grounding.
At least 3 metres.
The current needs to circulate. Current circulates through the rope, tape or wire to the animal or grass and back to energizer again via the grounding pins (see 'How does electric fencing work?').
You can check this easily with a digital voltmeter, 4000 Volt (4kV) is ok.
At least 4000 Volt (4kV). Is there not enough power? First check the energizer, then the grounding system and finally your fence.
The lifetime depends on grounding, the quality of the insulators, the quality of the rope, tape, wire and vegetation. Is this all right? Then the average life of the battery is one grazing season.
Tape: every 4 to 5 metres.
Rope: every 7 to 8 metres.